Is it too late to chat about Paris Fashion Week? Maybe most people have already moved on to anticipating Oscar fashion. It's understandable, though; the continuous stream of shows can be exhausting.

A few folks have messaged me, curious about my views on fashion month. I've ended up in deep discussions with friends and colleagues, analysing the recent trends as though we're tackling topics as weighty as climate change. This newsletter is a shift from my usual focus on Latin America, but it's a good lead-up, especially as I plan to connect this back to how Latin American brands strive to break onto these global platforms.

I focused mostly on London Fashion Week this season (refer to my gram to see what I covered), which was handy since I live here. I enjoyed some great shows from well-known names (like JW Anderson and Erdem), but I was also keen on chatting with lesser-known talents and discovering what it’s like for them to navigate the current fashion landscape as a newbie.

I got to talk to three promising talents from Latin America: Jennifer Droguett Espinosa, who's behind Anciela and has Colombian-Chilean roots; Genaro Rivas from Peru; and Nicole Zisman from Venezuela (like me). I'll tell you all about it next week. I went in-depth with these interviews, and cramming their stories into this already-packed newsletter wouldn't be fair. So, I'm saving that for next time!

Paris Fashion Week Musings

Gathering my thoughts and echoing some sentiments from what I've read, there's a general consensus that the recent fashion shows across all four major fashion weeks—New York, Milan, London, and Paris—lacked creativity. This mostly comes down to brands playing it safe, sticking close to their well-established bestsellers in these unpredictable times. It's not exactly the season for wild experimentation.

Lauren Sherman pointed out in her excellent newsletter, Line Sheet (which I highly recommend subscribing to), that much of what was showcased seemed uninspired and lacked depth. She did, however, highlight Miu Miu and Sacai as refreshing exceptions. Meanwhile, Angelo Flaccavento commented for BoF that while creative flair was in short supply, there were still moments of brilliance. Critics also agreed that collections by Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton and Jonathan Anderson for Loewe stood out this season. Additionally, smaller brands like Ottolinger and Vaquera, which bring actual runway designs to retail, are making smart, daring moves, as highlighted by Flaccavento.

My personal standouts are Rick Owens and Sacai. Both maintain their ethos and continue evolving the language of their respective brands without resorting to gimmicks. I liked Loewe; it felt optimistic (amidst a sea of sombreness in the shows) and had a lot of haute details, including beautiful intricate embroideries. The vegetable prints were fun and added something different. Oh, and those belt buckle dresses that opened the show…

Ok, Ghesquière's collection for Louis Vuitton was sublime too, but I expect nothing less from him. I've been a fan since his days at Balenciaga, where I'd argue he was the best thing that ever happened to the brand.

As for Demna at Balenciaga, I certainly acknowledge his talent. However, it seems that success nowadays is measured solely by sales, sometimes at the expense of the brand's legacy. And despite the scandals, everyone seems to look the other way. Voice notes, eBay invite gimmicks, runways with flashy screens spinning some tale about modern times... It's a dress made out of bras. ¿Hola?

The Row's move to ban phones from the show was smart. I kind of wish all shows would do this. Not only is the attitude of everyone (not just at fashion shows) wanting to capture everything on the phone utterly annoying, but to me, it seemed like a nudge to not experience life only through a screen (coming from someone who spends the majority of her day glued to one). However, in the case of The Row, it appeared more a matter of staying true to their brand ethos than anything else.

It makes sense; while only a handful of people globally can splurge on luxurious runway pieces, a certain exclusivity dissipates with the instant sharing of images.

The Row doesn't rely on social media to boost its sales, which I'd say is a huge mark of success in today's digital age. Meanwhile, Chanel doesn't sell its bags online; I've seen the queues outside the stores, quite the upscale first-world problem. True luxury, or at least to some extent, will 'revert' to being experienced exclusively offline.

Thank you for reading GEN33. This post is public so feel free to share it.

The debut of Seán McGirr at Alexander McQueen has stirred quite a commotion. After allowing some time for my initial reactions to settle, I find myself with little to add to what has become a rather overdone discussion. It felt disjointed and seemed to echo many overused themes prevalent in other brands, which seems unnecessary for a brand with such rich DNA, especially considering Lee was a master tailor. 

Yes, we see the connection. McGirr sought to capture the raw intensity reminiscent of McQueen's Spring/Summer 1995 collection. Despite time constraints, the effort, though admirable, did not quite meet the mark.

Again, I thought he could have gone with one or two McQueen-isms and explored them. Despite this, McGirr garnered significant media attention and evoked strong reactions, which, in the fashion world, is preferable to indifference. Looking ahead, the fashion crowd can only wait and see if he elevates his game next season.

That's enough of my fashion analysis; I'm not Vogue's Sarah Mower, and my musings on the catwalks are but a drop in the ocean of global commentary. However, if you enjoyed reading my thoughts about the shows, reply to this email or comment, and I'll do more of those in the future! If you're not doing so already, give me a follow on the gram @gramartinm @gen33mag, and I'd welcome suggestions of what you'd like to read.

NEWS ROUNDUP

Happy Women’s Day!

11 Latin American Women Inventors to Know

From Ellen Ochoa to Maria Artunduaga, these Latin American female inventors have revolutionized their industries with their work. Read More

Calling All Latin American Photographers!

PhotoVogue launches its first call in the region: Latin American Panorama In celebration of the 25th anniversary of Vogue Mexico and Latin America. Read more.

Latin American Galleries at ARCOmadrid 2024

The Spanish international art fair ARCOmadrid takes place from March 6 to 10 with a great number of Latin American proposals, curatorial projects, galleries and artists. Read more.

Designer Patricio Campillo is the first Mexican to advance to the semi-finals of the LVMH Prize

Campillo presented his menswear line at the prestigious LVMH Prize (initiated in 2013 by the French luxury giant LVMH). He recently participated in the semi-finalists' showroom in Paris. The date of the final remains to be confirmed. Read more

America Ferrera to Star in Series About Cuban Artist Ana Mendieta

America Ferrera will next star in a new series about famed Cuban artist Ana Mendieta who died mysteriously at age 36. Read more.