Through Her Personal Story, Venezuelan Designer Nicole Zisman Defies the Clichéd Expectations of 'Latin' Fashion

Photos courtesy of Nicole Zisman.

Upon catching wind of Nicole Zisman's accent, it struck a chord of familiarity, unmistakably from Caracas. My remark about it surprised her, as she believed that so many years living abroad—16 to be precise—would have dulled that distinctive cadence of speech.

Our common Venezuelan background made it simple for us to bond over the distinctive experiences of being a Venezuelan living in London. An experience that requires resilience and navigating the stark cultural contrasts.

For example, she shares a story of her aunt urging her to forgo homework for an impromptu family trip to the beach, contrasting against London's more reserved and often dreary atmosphere. "You feel constantly broken here," she observes.

This sense of "brokenness" and the resilience required for daily life as a "Londoner" is what Zisman sought to address in her Autumn Winter 2024 collection.

For instance, she used tape as a motif to symbolize the need for adaptability and quick maintenance of appearances, like affixing makeup to skirts or tops. Meanwhile, a skirt-over-trousers look emerged from her personal experience: "When I'm super busy, I can't stand wearing tights," she explains.

The 28-year-old designer graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2019 with a degree in Fashion Design in Print. But it wasn't until last year that she launched her wholesale fashion brand. She had primarily been working as an artist, focusing on sculpture and installation projects for galleries, and produced clothing pieces mainly on commission.

Her delay in entering the fashion industry had a substantial rationale.

She recalls fashion internships were marred by endless overtime and negligible compensation, all within a hostile atmosphere.

However, a passion for print and a desire to delve into personal narratives propelled her to venture into ready-to-wear. "I love print, and the type of images I always look for are very much about storytelling," she explains, indicating a preference for symbolic patterns over obvious prints.

A great example of her approach to print is Zisman’s 2019 BA graduate collection, which focused on the theme of assimilation. Here, she played with styling, creating a character that existed solely on Instagram. “I would take her garments and conduct styling experiments with pieces that represented my reality, turning the prints into collage-like mishmashes of garments.”

Another prevalent theme in Zisman's designs is the exploration of “the beauty of imperfection.” She achieves this through a technique known as "shattered glass," originally developed for an art project at a London gallery. This method has become a signature of her work, evident in her graduate collection and subsequent lines, including her recent AW24 collection.

The process involves meticulously assembling fabric panels and hand-sewing hundreds of sequins onto them. The careful placement of each sequin, akin to solving a puzzle on fabric, transforms the dress into a wearable work of art. "I often speak about the state of being broken, and there's a certain beauty to that. There's huge potential for growth and strength."

Navigating the cultural differences that lead to that state of emotional "brokenness" is one thing, and conforming to Latin American clichés and stereotypes is quite another. "People have an idea of what Latin American fashion is," says Zisman, acknowledging the contributions of countless designers dedicated to handicraft and locally sourced materials, "but having not lived in Venezuela for a long time, my experience differs from the typical idea of "Latin fashion", and sometimes, people don't understand.”

Like Droguett, Zisman feels that, despite a vibrant Latin community in parts of London, there needs to be more awareness and engagement with Latin American stories and identities.

Yet, as a Sarabande Foundation alumna, Zisman does recognise the substantial support system available for emerging talent in London. “Sarabande has been incredibly supportive, offering space and assistance along with a fantastic team of mentors. The artist community is truly exceptional,” she says.

This nurturing environment has been instrumental in her development, yet Zisman remains focused on a broader goal: deepening her connection with her clients. This will only become clear once the collection is released," she explains. Currently engaged in discussions with potential buyers, Zisman is exploring the market's response.

“Knowing oneself is crucial, but the essence of art lies in its ability to connect with others. I'm actively working towards this," she asserts."