London Fashion Week Adventures, LATAM Talent Highlights and Unexpected Fashion Moments

Hello! Welcome Back to GEN33!

It was wonderful to be back at London Fashion Week, this time covering some shows for Vogue México & Latinoamérica. Thanks Karla Martinez, Head of Content, for the trust! Here’s a recap of the experience before I dive into this week’s top news. #LFW just celebrated its 40th anniversary! Since debuting in 1984, it's earned a reputation as fashion’s free-spirited hub, launching the careers of icons like Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.

This season, names on everyone's lips included Harris Reed, Chopova Lowena, LVMH Prize winner Standing Ground , Nensi Dojaka and Harri. However, editor favorites like Dilara Findikoglu and Molly Goddard, for instance, were notably missing from the calendar as some brands reconsider the investment of a full-scale show, given the current economic climate.

Mark Fast, while not uninterrpted, has been showing at LFW regularly since 2009. His SS25 collection evoked East London’s clubber spirit, presenting at The Bike Shed in Shoreditch. Models strutted down the runway to pounding garage beats in form-fitting dresses and separates in neon hues showcasing his signature knitted cutouts and laddering details.

On Saturday, I caught up with rising Peruvian designer Genaro Rivas, who presented his second womenswear collection A Journey Towards Marvel Hill, it featured colourful abstract prints with alienesque 👾 vibes. Ambitious as ever, he showcased a menswear collection in June and is currently the only Latin American designer with a full runway show in London—though he's not the region's sole representative at LFW. (More about that in a moment).

Emilia Wickstead delivered an impeccable collection during her Sunday afternoon presentation at the Royal Geographical Society 🌎. Drawing inspiration from German-born French photographer Gisèle Freund, Wickstead explored the connection between Freund and her subjects. The New Zealand-born designer combined her signature polished femininity with a daring tomboyish edge and infused it with her sharp sense of colour. The collection featured full-skirted dresses with sensual open sides, fringe details and intricate floral embroideries adding rich texture and contrast.

Monday was especially busy, starting with Marques’ Almeida at noon at St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden—a perfect backdrop for their Baroque-inspired looks. The duo played with the tension between tight and loose, featuring brocade, peplums, billowing sleeves, ruffles galore and extra wide bell-bottoms paired with chunky platform shoes—all effortlessly wearable and eye-catching. I especially loved the diversity in age and body shapes in the casting! More please.

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Luckily, my next stop was just a quick ten-minute walk to Monmouth Kitchen on Mercer Street to catch the talented Jennifer Droguett of womenswear label Anciela, and Erika Alvarez, founder of Koua Studio, a bespoke handmade textile firm focused on ethical and sustainable textile production employing artisans across different Mexican communities.

Droguett debuted her SS25 collection, Echoes of Earth, at The Southbank Centre in August (fellow Substacker has a good recap here). At the LFW event the pieces were on display; her mastery of tailoring could easily rival any big label, and pictures don’t do it justice. I recently wore two of her pieces, and despite being a bit snug in a sample size (surprise: I’m not sample size), the fit was impeccable and comfortable.

Meanwhile, Alvarez launched a handbag line, Waves of Change, made with textiles from her firm. The collection was inspired by childhood memories of Acapulco 🏖️, once a tourist paradise, now plagued by crime and insecurity, worsened by last year’s tropical storm Otis, which devastated the area affecting its entire population of around 800,000 people.

The refreshing cocktails were making it all too easy to get completely smashed before the Burberry show. But I was good. 👼🍹

Speaking of Burberry, it was a fantastic way to wrap up the LFW events (I was originally intending to end with the Icons party, but let’s just say that didn’t quite go to plan— more on that in a moment).

The set, with Gary Hume’s giant scrub-colored cutouts, felt abstract, raw, and, dare I say, whimsical—even if that wasn’t the intention. Celebs were everywhere: Barry Keoghan, Lila Grace Moss, Jerry Hall and Elizabeth Jagger, Kelly Rutherford, Jourdan Dunn (and a bunch of people I had to Google, as I had no clue who they were). But hey, even Anna Wintour seemed in a good mood.

The clothes were polished and pretty (well, it’s Burberry, of course). Daniel Lee captures the brand’s British essence beautifully, though I would have liked to see the envelope pushed a bit further. That said, sticking to essentials is wise, as the company—now under new CEO Joshua Schulman—hopes to navigate through the turbulent waters of a luxury slowdown. It's no secret that Burberry, which has been struggling to boost sales in recent months, needs a stronger anchor to improve its position.

Ah, before I tell you about what happened at the Icons party, Venezuelan designer Nicole Zisman premiered her fashion film, I Forgive You, on Tuesday as part of LFW’s digital schedule. The film follows two ex-lovers on a journey from anger to forgiveness, laced with heartbreak over their inability to fully connect, despite coming from the same world. Here it is!

Ah yes, the Burberry LFW Icons party. So, even though I had an invitation, I waited outside for an hour, probably in denial that I was never getting in. I’m not a model, nor the daughter of one like Lila Moss, who was actually standing next to me until her dad, Jefferson Hack (co-founder and CEO of Dazed Media), saw her struggling to get in when he was leaving the event and rescued her. Then there were the influencers (I assume that’s what they were, because who else dresses that ridiculously), attempting to get the attention of those unsuccessfully trying to keep things together at the door.

From the IG pics of the event, it looks like I didn’t miss much (or so I tell myself). During my wait, I saw Jourdan Dunn go in and leave, so maybe she wasn’t having a lot of fun either.

Anyway… until next season! Now, here’s the news you need to know this week!

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IN THE NEWS

👟Sole Fever: Quick Hits on the Latest Footwear

The highly anticipated 🐰 Bad Bunny x Adidas Gazelle Indoor "Off-White/Black-Gum" drops September 21

People had been waiting for months for the shoes by the coveted Puerto Rican trap star. Inspired by the idea of “the right thing in the wrong place” (isn’t that the story of my life?), the design features a unique toe box, an oversized tongue (that’s what they say about me too; I do talk a lot), and a heel tag. The shoes come with detachable accessories and interchangeable insoles in both thin and thick versions. Interesting. (HypebeastLAT).

Oui, s'il vous plaît

— Speaking of cool shoe collabs, did you see the Isabel Marant x Converse one?

A true elevation of the Chuck 70 with a cool French girl boho vibe—think Isabel Marant’s classic wedge look on Converse. I’m a fan. Check them out!

Canary Yellow

That said, I’m even more of a fan of the super talented Spanish artist Lauro Samblás, who just collaborated with Vans for an artistic advertising campaign in his native Canary Islands. Lauro hasn’t just worked with the likes of Gucci, Hermès, and Adidas (to name a few), but he’s also one of the most genuine humans on the planet. His work is a reflection of his soul. Seriously, check out his IG—it’ll brighten your day (kind of literally).

🇧🇷 Brazilian Women in Fashion Leading the Way for Change

Fashion

Gutted I didn’t get the chance to see this at London Fashion Week, but I wanted to give it a mention. Brazil: Creating Fashion for Tomorrow, A Chain of Women was an exhibit spotlighting the pivotal role of women in fashion, featuring Brazilian brands and initiatives led by women.

(Video of the exhibition coming together via @LuizaChara)

Brands included Catarina Mina, Farm Rio, Lenny Niemeyer, Malwee, Nalimo, PatBo, Renata Brenha, and Flavia Aranha, all working with local artisans and communities. The exhibition also showcased material sustainability and innovation, aligned with the UN's Sustainable Development Goals for poverty reduction, education, and gender equality. Set design was by Helena Cebrian, Luiza Chara, Gico Lagrossi and curated by Lilian Pacce, Marilia Biasi, Camila Villas. Via (Underlines Magazine).

🇦🇷 Argentine Artist Pilar Zeta at Moco Museum London

Art

Pilar Zeta is known for her vibrant, geometric artworks that blend pop culture and abstract expressionism. Her commercial clients include the likes of Coldplay, Adidas and The Rolling Stones 😮. Her work Her work is truly remarkable. Moco Museum info here.

🇲🇽 Willy Chavarria Nominated for the CFDA Menswear Designer Award

Fashion

California-born Chavarría, of Irish and Mexican descent, is known for weaving politics, race and sexuality into his designs, alongside his commitment to diversity and social engagement in the industry. Since launching his namesake label in 2015, Chavarria has gained critical acclaim for his distinct take on men’s fashion, using his shows as platforms for political expression. (Willy Chavarría).

🎤 All the 2024 Latin Grammy Nominees

Music

The 2024 Latin Grammy nominees have been revealed! Check out the full list of artists competing for this prestigious award. Some of the highlights include: Anitta, Bad Bunny, Jorge Drexler, Karol G, and the legendary Juan Luis Guerra.🌹 Read more via Vogue.

🩰 Isaac Hernández on the Cover of Vogue: The Mexican Dancer Living with Intensity

Art

Talking about ballet without mentioning Nureyev or Baryshnikov was once unthinkable. In 2024, the name Hernández joins the ranks. Discover how the Mexican ballet star keeps leaping toward success. Find the full story at Vogue.

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