The Trends Nobody Talks About and New Latin American Designers at Paris Fashion Week

Welcome back to GEN33! Your dedicated newsletter for the latest news and insights on the business and culture of Latin America's creative industries.

In today’s issue, with Paris Fashion Week just wrapping up, I’m sharing a special trend report from visual artist Lauro Samblás. There are also some top recommendations from the San Sebastián Film Festival, a peek into the bookshops of Mexico City, and a look at the 200th anniversary of Uriarte Talavera. And don’t miss a very special playlist at the end!

Mentions in this issue:

Prada Bottega Veneta VALENTINO S.P.A. Alexander McQueen CHANEL Maison Moschino Christian Dior SE BALENCIAGA Céline, Lauro Samblás, Karla Martinez De Salas, Olga Ianul, Fer Millán, Amanda Marcucci, Rafael Azzi, Ignacio Alen, Mariana Rondón, Maite Abelardi, Diego Lerman, Cecilia Atán, Valeria Pivato, Mariana Rondón, Salvador del Solar, Helena Christensen, Emiliano Villalba and James Richmond, Uriarte Talavera, Tim Blanks, Nicole Phelps and Suzy Menkes and more…

Oh, what a whirlwind fashion month it was! Everyone had something to say about Michele's debut at Valentino and McGirr's sophomore collection for Alexander McQueen.

Then there was the star-studded lineup at Miu Miu—Sunday Rose (Nicole Kidman's daughter), Alexa Chung, and Hilary Swank, with Willem Dafoe closing the show. Louis Vuitton went all out with a trunk-filled runway. But the week ended with the (not so) shocking news that Hedi Slimane has left Celine. Michael Ryder, formerly of Ralph Lauren, will be stepping in.

Now, we're all wondering if the long-awaited speculation about Slimane heading to Chanel is true. I'll leave it to industry veterans Tim Blanks, Nicole Phelps, and Suzy Menkes to give you the play-by-play on these events. In the meantime, I've teamed up with the talented Spanish visual artist Lauro Samblás to create a trend report with a rather unexpected flair.

Indeed, this spring recap isn't your typical rundown of pastels, sheer fabrics and florals for spring. This all came about during our spontaneous daily chats about fashion shows. He's too humble to brag about this, but he's worked with the likes of Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Adidas, to name a few. Enjoy!

Spring Sumer 2025 Trend Report

There are three macro trends overall. First, a more colorful and optimistic vibe, celebrating life and art. I’d say we could throw in some Italian brands like Moschino, Bottega Veneta, and Prada here. Then there’s the middle ground, which honestly feels stale, emotionless and rather formulaic, if you will. Personally—and sorry, but—I’d put Michele’s Valentino in this group. I mean, let’s face it, we’ve seen it all before. I’m not saying it won’t work; it’s just not exactly surprising. The final bow of Hedi at Celine? Sure, super pretty and sellable but far from life-changing. As for Dior? It feels like Maria Grazia is deep in burnout mode.

Which, honestly, makes me wonder if Dior belongs in this third, more funereal, “celebration of death” kind of category. Especially with all that black. It’s supposed to be spring! Chitose Abe at Sacai, one of my all-time faves, delivered an amazing collection, but it was also devoid of colour. And then there’s Balenciaga—nothing screams “depressed rich Gen Z” like Demna’s collections, and the latest one is no exception. Most brands’ moods or themes fall somewhere within these categories.

That said, the trends we’ve lined up might not follow this classification, and they’re all open to interpretation. Take a look at what we’ve come up with and let us know your thoughts!

Gone With The Wind

This is rather fun to look at. Dresses and scarves swirling around like the model is caught in a gust of wind, almost hurricane-like. Yet, somehow, it’s not entirely chaotic—the hair and the rest of the look stay flawless. In Loewe’s case, it's less about the wind and more like a crinoline dress, with visible circular underhoops. But some coats gave the sense that the wind was blowing from below. It’s a paradoxical play on making these stiff garments appear in motion. Like capturing a single frame, frozen in time. (Brands: Victoria Beckham, Kiko Kostadinov, Prada, Loewe)

Museum of Modern Art

Life and art. Sculptural shapes and geometric pop art vibes—easily one of the most fun and optimistic trends of the season. Jonathan Anderson, as always, played with proportions at J.W. Anderson, while Prada added a fun twist to bucket hats and skirts with circular cut-outs, embracing the '60s vibe of the collection. Meanwhile, Balmain took it to the next level with 3D faces even stamping Kylie Jenner on some pieces (as if we needed to see more of her). Other brands channeling MOMA energy? Pierre Cardin, Zommer, and Libertine.

Boxing Boots

This concept comes from those nostalgic, highly sellable fashion trends, in this case, the '90s. However, it also resurfaced in the 2000s. Remember Million Dollar Baby? Yes, the film from 2004 that won Hilary Swank an Oscar. She made an appearance walking in the Miu Miu SS25 show. Maybe it’s just a coincidence. Perhaps it’s simply one of those trends without a deep concept behind it. I think it’s a fun one, and I remember having a pair of Diesel boxing boots in 2006 that were similar to these. What’s your take on the return of the boxing boot? Seen at: Stella McCartney, Loewe, Dior, Ottolinger.

To Market

For Fall 2024, designers really leaned into everyday objects. Take Balenciaga's show last year in Los Angeles, for instance, where leafy greens peeked out of grocery bags they created in collaboration with Erewhon. Then, at Adrian Appiolaza's Moschino debut for Fall 2024, the baguettes and veggies sticking out of a paper-like grocery bag were actually individual clutches. Fast forward to the SS25 season, and Bottega Veneta unveiled a double-bag look, pairing its main accessory alongside leather grocery bags that sported cheeky, playful prints. More thoughts here.

Latin American Designers in Paris

Every season, there are plenty of Latin American designers setting up showrooms in Paris—it's no small feat! It’s expensive and crowded with designers; PFW is by far the most competitive. I'm curious to see how they fared this season.

Venezuelan designer Efrain Mogollón presented his SS25 collection titled Rosa América, a deeply personal ode to his roots and a homage to his mother, Rosa, whom he credits as one of his biggest inspirations. He showcased his signature voluminous shapes, this time focusing on roses and favouring organza as a textile. His showroom looked pretty busy, with visits from Vogue’s (Mx) Karla Martinez and influencers like Olga Ianul and Fer Millán, among many others. Well done!

Meanwhile, the lovely Italian jewellery designer Amanda Marcucci popped me a message inviting me to her showroom. I couldn't make it, but she shared that Helena Christensen wore one of her necklaces to the recent BoF gala—and she looked stunning! (I had mistakenly stated Marcucci was Brazilian).

For their part, PR firm Azzi+Co led by Rafael Azzi launched its first Paris showroom, set in a former Banque Francaise on Rue Vivienne. Brands inclided Dominican Republic’s Isla & White, the Venezuelan shoe brand Andrea Gómez, which Moda Operandi can't seem to get enough of; the eye-catching Wai Wai Rio handbags from Brazil; and the architectural jewellery of Venezuelan Nayibe Warchausky, alongside modern accessories from Ecuadorian brand Sensi Studio. Thanks to Rafael Azzi for the invite and to Ignacio Alen for the coverage.

By the way, you should know Ignacio was the editor of the style section of the journal “El Carabobeño” of Valencia, Venezuela for eight years and also had a line of the most impeccably tailored shirts. Now, he shares his thoughts and the latest lifestyle trends on his new site Sinequamode.

So, with the big four fashion capitals behind us, it's time to look ahead! Mexico Fashion Week and São Paulo Fashion Week are just around the corner on October 15th and 16th, respectively. Journalist has a thought-provoking post pondering the question: Is Mexican Fashion Week relevant? 

I promise to share some insights about São Paulo very soon. Ah! Emiliano also shared with me his top desigers for Mexico Fashion Week, more about that in the next edition!

Must-See FilmsI’m happy to report that two critically acclaimed films by Latin American directors that premiered at the San Sebastián Film Festival will be on Netflix this October: El Lugar de La Otra, directed by Maite Abelardi from Chile, and El Hombre que Amaba los Platos Voladores by Argentina's Diego Lerman. I’m still not sure where you can watch these, but you also won't want to miss La Llegada del Hijo, directed by Argentinian duo Cecilia Atán and Valeria Pivato; the award-winning Zafari by Venezuelan director Mariana Rondón, and Ramón y Ramón, directed by Salvador del Solar from Peru.

City Musings

I stumbled upon Louie James Richmond's Instagram, where he posted a beautiful video about bookshops in Mexico City. He has a whole series of reels showcasing different spots in the Mexican capital. Do give him a follow; it’s a joy to watch.

Uriarte Talavera's 200th AnniversaryFounded in 1824, Uriarte Talavera is a gem of a ceramics studio in Puebla, Mexico, known for its exquisite hand-painted Talavera pottery. Each piece reflects Mexico's rich cultural heritage through intricate patterns and vibrant colours, crafted using time-honored techniques. Their collections of tableware, tiles and decorative pierces are designed to elevate any space.

What does it mean to speak about Mexican fashion? 

The exhibition Pasado de Moda: Pasarela de Estilos in México City invites you to explore a unique perspective on fashion that has never been seen in a museum project. This showcase delves beyond luxury, revealing the deep connections between fashion and art, graphic design, media influence, and the commerce that sustains the industry. Museo del Estanquillo with free entry is free until January 2025!

The Playlist